Tag Archives: El Paso Mountains

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Holly Ash Mine (El Paso Mountains)

 

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The Holly Ash Mine is located along EP15 / Last Chance Canyon Road in the El Paso Mountains. From Red Rock Canyon State Park follow highway 14 for a little over 7 miles. Turn right on dirt road EP15 / Last Chance Canyon Road, and follow for 4.5 miles.  Do not attempt without a high clearance vehicle.

The Holly Ash Mine began operation in 1939 as a direct competitor to the nearby Old Dutch Cleanser Mine. Unlike most mining operations in the El Paso Mountains both of these mines produced pumice, which was used in household cleansers, insulating and acoustical plaster, wood and paint fillers, toothpaste and powders, soil conditioners and oil absorbing compounds.

Operations completely ceased at the mine in 1959. Estimates indicate that over 25,000 tons of raw material was mined at the Holly Ash.

There are a number of foundations, and collapsed buildings on site around the mine, as well as decaying mining equipment. The mine cuts are shallow unlike the extensive tunnels at the nearby Old Dutch Cleanser Mine.

 

 

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Terese Petroglyphs / Village (Coso Style Petroglyphs / El Paso Mountains)

 

The Terese Petroglyph site is located in the El Paso Mountain Range, outside of the town of Ridgecrest.  This site has been keep hush-hush by archaeologist since its discovery in the 1990′s. Very little information has been publicly released, and only a few images of the site have surfaced. The bit of information that you can find regarding the location will throw you off by a good 7 miles, and 7 miles in this harsh desert / mountain terrain might as well be 30 miles.

 

The Terese site is interesting for a number of factors:

1. This is the most southern known location of the “Coso” style petroglyphs.

2. There has been very  little vandalization at the site.

3. 86 rock art panels have been documented.

4. Bedrock mortars, and grinding slicks are at every turn.

5. Rock rings cover an area of nearly a quarter of a mile.

6. Pottery shards, obsidian flakes, and lithic scatters have been found and documented from this site.

 

One of numerous rock circles at Terese.

One of numerous rock circles at Terese.

 

The vast size of village site is what intrigues me the most. I’ve come across many other village sites in the area, but nothing seemingly as large as the Terese Village. Rock clearings, rock circles, rock art panels, and everything I’ve already mentioned above are found over a 2300 square foot area.

Archaeologist believe based on test samples of obsidian flakes from the village site that the Terese site dates to between AD 1 to AD 1000. As well as the “Coso” style petroglyphs there are elements of styles found within Death Valley and the eastern Mojave desert. This has brought about the idea that the Terese site could have been reoccupied after its initial occupation.

This is the most extensive photo library of the Terese site to be released in a public venue.

 

Due to the sensitive nature of these sites locations are no longer available via the website. If you are interested in visiting this or any other sensitive sites I recommend that you utilize my guide service.

 

One of the most mysterious petroglyph designs that I've ever come across. - Terese site

One of the most mysterious petroglyph designs that I’ve ever come across. – Terese site

 

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Black Mountain #6 Summit Hike (El Paso Mountains)

 

I had considered this wilderness hike for the last few months after having learning of the mountains possible connections to the Native American tribes in the region. There is no real evidence of the myths, but I wanted the opportunity to explore the mountain for myself.

It is said that the top of Black Mountain was a religious meeting place for all the tribes of the area. Not one particular tribe claimed ownership, but it was a shared resource that brought neighboring tribes together as a place of worship and to promote peace among them.  This was at least the belief of Dr. John J. Cawley, a Bakersfield physician that visited the site in 1963.

Dr. Cawley was given this information by Della Gerbracht. Della once lived with her father at Gerbacht Camp, which was located at the base of Black Mountain.  She had claimed to Dr. Cawley that, “In the early days when she came there with her father, there were many Indian artifacts present and much evidence that the Indians had once used this area extensively”. Cawley went on to add, “She states that there were at one time some caves on the western side of the mountain where a young girl found several kachina-like dollas whose bodies were elaborately clothed.”

During Dr. Cawley’s visit in 1963 much of the evidence that he believed that he would find had disappeared. Petroglyphs (rock carvings) that had supposed to have been at the site had been destroyed or removed by vandals. He did make the claim to have come across numerous petroglyphs at the top of Black Mountain. The cave with kachina-like dolls had been destroyed in the 1952 earthquake. Cawley also claimed to have found six ringed enclosures, which he presumed were made for ceremonial purposes.

Sadly on my hike up Black Mountain I didn’t find anything as interesting as Dr. Cawley, or even Della Gerbracht. Some of the sites mentioned above do exist, I just didn’t choose the correct location to begin my hike. Photographic proof of some of these locations can be viewed on the Bickel Camp website.

Despite my lack of finding the sites that I had set out to find this was still a fun and rewarding hike.

Black Mountain is the tallest peak in the El Paso Mountain Range at 5,244 feet, from the top you have a stunning 360 degree view of Fremont Valley and Indian Wells Valley. The mountain is surrounded by badlands topography. From the location that I began my ascent along Mesquite Canyon Road it was roughly a 2.25 mile hike with an elevation increase of 1,759 feet. The route is mostly trailess, however there are portions that an old trail is visible and marked with cairns.

You can view and download the route that I used via Garmin Adventures.

Along the route that I used there are a few points of interest. The first being what appears to be a grave or a marker of sort. I’m not sure on the grave aspect as the ground is not raised like you would expect. Maybe a religious shrine? You can be the judge.

 

An old grave? Marker? Religious shrine? You decide.

An old grave? Marker? Religious shrine? You decide.

 

Further along on the trail along one of many basaltic rock outcroppings that I encountered there is what I believe to be a blind. Most likely not for hunting based on its location, but rather as a lookout.

 

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Possible lookout or hunting blind.

At the top of the peak there is a small build up of basaltic rock, it seems to have been a shelter at some point. At this same location there is a metal ammo box with a notepad to add your name to the list of people who have made the journey. From looking at the list of people and dates, you can assume that this peak only sees two or three groups of people per month. Records in the ammo box date back to the 1980′s.

Walls of a past shelter at the peak of Black Mountain.

Walls of a past shelter at the peak of Black Mountain.

As far as the claim of petroglyphs at the top of the peak, I couldn’t find anything on this trip. But that doesn’t mean that they’re not there.

I’ve already concluded that I will climbing Black Mountain again, however this time with a different starting point. I’m determined to find and see for myself some of the mysteries that this mountain folds.

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Looking out over Holland Camp.
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Holland Camp – The Apache Copper Mine (El Paso Mountains)

 

Holland Camp is located in the El Paso Mountain Range near where EP15 and EP11 meet.

There is little historical documentation of the Holland Camp. What little that has been documented points to an original claim ownership belong to Burro Schmidt as part of his 26 claim, Copper Basin Group. Having little time to mine and prospect due to Schmidt’s obsession with completing his tunnel (SEE: Burro Schmidt Tunnel Entry) he eventually sold the claim to William A. Smith, Neil Brown, and John Hamblen, Junior. The Apache Copper Mine and Holland Camp began to be developed in the late 1930s by the new owners. Records indicate that activity was short-lived and died out in 1940.

The only remaining building at Holland Camp

The only remaining building at Holland Camp

 

A 1962 study conducted by California Division of Mines and Geology describe The Apache Mine as follows:

“Two areas of mineralization about half a mile apart. Northeastern area contains free gold, malachite, chalcopyrite, pyrite, and silver in fracture zone which strikes E. in argillite. Southeastern area contains traces of manganese and copper mineralization in vertical fault zone in limestone and as replacement of limestone by manganese oxides. Fault zone strikes N. 100 W.; limestone strikes N. 500 W., dips steeply NE. to vertical. Grade of ore is low.”

“Northeast workings consist of an adit driven S. 500 W. at least 350 feet, open cuts, and prospect shafts. Southwest working is vertical shaft probably several tens of feet deep. Several Ounces of gold recovered in mill constucted at camp near northeast workings in 1940; also few tens of pounds of copper recovered. Gold ore contained about 0.5 oz. gold per ton. Idle since 1940.”

At Holland Camp today there is little to see, but it is still of interest as there are more ruins located here than at various other sites in the El Paso Mountains. A single building remains despite missing its roof, it is unclear what purpose the building served during it’s time, however after looking over the structure it points to possibly having been a garage. This conclusion is based on the size of the separated stalls and evidence of their having not been any doors installed. A number of water tanks and pipes remain on site, as well as various other rusted mechanical parts from the bygone era.

 

Unmarked grave site at Holland Camp.

Unmarked grave site at Holland Camp.

 

There are two graves located a short distance from the structure. They appear to be the size of a seven to teen year old child, or a large dog. I have not been able to locate any information on the graves, therefore it is unknown if they are human or animal.

Also of interest is what appears to be an airstip at the camp, there is no mention of this airstrip in any historical documents that I have been able to obtain. See map image below.

A map pointing out the location of a possible airstrip.

A map pointing out the location of a possible airstrip.

 

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Photos from the El Paso Mountains Expedition – November 2012

EL PASO MOUNTAINS / RAND MOUNTAINS EXPEDITION
NOVEMBER 5th – 6th 2012

26 miles from start to finish.
Completed one day earlier than expected

Gear used:
Duffle Bag, Hiking Poll, Tent, Sleeping Bag, Hiking Shoes, Tin Cup, Spot Satellite Tracker, Coolpix S6100 Camera

Food / Beverage Consumed:
2 MRE Meals, 5 mini-bags of Somersault Snacks, 2 packs of oatmeal, 3 gallons of water, 2 cups of coffee


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Day 1: Death Valley Jim is ready to begin the 26 mile trek. Starting point is the shooting range along EP26 outside of Ridgecrest, CA.

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Day 1: Lithic Scatters found near Sheep Springs.

Day 1: Interesting rock pattern at Kawaiisu camp near Sheep Spring.

Day 1: Interesting rock pattern at Kawaiisu camp near Sheep Spring.

 

Day 1: Approaching Sheep Spring.

Day 1: Approaching Sheep Spring.

Day 1: Enjoying some Somersault Snacks at Sheep Spring.

Day 1: Enjoying some Somersault Snacks at Sheep Spring.

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Day 1: The narrows in Goler Gulch

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Day 1: Petroglyph panel near the narrows in Goler Gulch

Day 1: Dinner - a yummy Chicken Noodle MRE.

Day 1: Dinner – a yummy Chicken Noodle MRE.

 

Day 2: 5:35am - making a cup of coffee before packing up for day two.

Day 2: 5:35am – making a cup of coffee before packing up for day two.

 

Day 2: 5:35am - making a cup of coffee before packing up for day two.

Day 2: 5:35am – making a cup of coffee before packing up for day two.

Day 2: Shadow hiker!

Day 2: Shadow hiker!

Day 2: Fremont Valley

Day 2: Fremont Valley

 

Day 2: Taking a break at Redrock Randsburg Rd.

Day 2: Taking a break at Redrock Randsburg Rd.

Day 2: Starting the climb up the Rand Mountain Range. Looking back at Saltdale.

Day 2: Starting the climb up the Rand Mountain Range. Looking back at Saltdale.

 

Day 2: Joshua Trees begin to present themselves once you reach enough height.

Day 2: Joshua Trees begin to present themselves once you reach enough height.

Day 2: The top of the Rand Mountain Range.

Day 2: The top of the Rand Mountain Range.

 

 

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El Paso Mountain Wilderness Mini Expedition

When: November 5, 6, 7th
Where: El Paso Mountain Wilderness (Ridgecrest, CA) to California City, CA
Distance: Roughly 41 miles
Route Map: Google Maps

This is a training expedition for the 15 day expedition across Death Valley in January 2013.

GEAR:
Backpack
Sleeping Bag
Tent
Walking Stick
Compass
Map

PROVISIONS:
3 gallons of water
2 MRE meals
4 packs of instant oatmeal
10 small packages of Somersault Snacks
2 bags of sunflower seeds
6 instant coffee packets

 

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Goler Gulch Petroglyphs

 

The site of the Goler Gulch petroglyphs is not documented at all from my research findings, and I have exhausted all of my sources of information to try to find any information on them. I find this rather surprising since the site isn’t what I would consider to be small, but rather medium-sized with well over 50 glyphs. Besides the petroglyphs found here, there is evidence of a camp as well. I found many pieces of chipped obsidian along the flat land directly beside the basalt outcropping. Finding this site was completely without intention, my wife and I were out for just a hike, and were about to turn around and head back to the Jeep when I noticed the basalt outcropping and decided to check it out.

The site is found in the El Paso Mountain Range in Kern County. Located only about a mile and half from the once bustling mining camp of Goler.

Much like the nearby Sheep Springs Petroglyphs, the petroglyphs found at Goler Gulch are likely traceable to the Kawaiisu. The Kawaiisu are the earliest known inhabitants of the area, they have been traced back over 2,000 years.

 

Due to the sensitive nature of these sites locations are no longer available via the website. If you are interested in visiting this or any other sensitive sites I recommend that you utilize my guide service.

 

 

View as you are approaching the basalt outcropping.

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Burro Schmidt Tunnel / Camp

 

I revisited the Burro Schmidt Tunnel and Camp in June of 2012. The following is an updated set of photos. You can read the history behind Burro Schmidt on my previous report which can be found here.

 

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Old Dutch Cleanser Mine & Cudahy Camp

The Old Dutch Cleanser Mine is worth a visit due to it’s pure uniqueness.

An old advertisement for Old Dutch Cleanser.

The Old Dutch Cleanser Mine and Cudahy Camp are located within the El Paso Mountains in Last Chance Canyon. There are multiple ways to make your way to both the mine and camp, the most likely route would be to travel up Last Chance Canyon Road from Red Rock-Randsburg Road. Cudahy Camp is approximately 4.5 miles from when you make the turn on Last Chance Canyon Road. The Old Dutch Cleanser Mine is approximately 6.37 miles from the beginning of LCCR, and is located high above on the mountain ledge. You can get up to the mine, however I’m not going to go into every little detail. Just locate the mine from below the mountain and follow the routes that make the most sense. Please note that LCCR requires high clearance, and 4×4. I have both driven the route, and hiked it on several occasions.

The Old Dutch Cleanser Mine began operation under Cudahy Packing Company in 1923. The primary mineral that was mined was pumicite, which is a variety of pumice (highly pressurized rock that is violently ejected from a volcano, it is formed when lava and water are mixed). Cudahy Packing utilized this material for the manufacturing of Old Dutch Cleanser, a domestic kitchen and bathroom scouring powder that was highly popular and well know in the USA. Old Dutch Cleanser is still manufactured today, however the mining location for pumicite was relocated in 1947.

Twelve men were employed by Cudahy to oversee the mine and produce 100 tons of pumicite per week. The pumicite was lowered down the mountain ridge utilizing an inclined rail tramway. From the base of the mountain, it was trucked 7 miles down Last Chance Canyon and loaded on the Pacific Railroad at Saltdale, then was delivered to Los Angeles where it was processed and blended with other material to create the cleanser.

Cudahy Camp was a small company operated camp that was created to house the miners employed at the mine. Numerous structures has been built at the camp, however it’s unclear as to all of their uses.

The scattered ruins of Cudahy Camp

So what is there to see at Old Dutch Cleanser Mine & Cudahy Camp today?

First be advised that when visiting the Old Dutch Cleanser Mine that it is on private property. When I spoke with a Park Ranger at Red Rock State Park he assured me of this, however he also let me know that for the time being the mine is open to the public for visiting.

For most people, The Old Dutch Cleanser Mine will be unlike any other mining operation that you’ve ever come across. The tunnels going into the mine are massive, to the point that you could probably drive a vehicle through it. The walls, ceiling, and floor are completely white and the substance feels as if you are walking through baby powder. The tunnel system is extensive, and many entrances can be found around the mountain. I only spent time poking around what would seem to be the main entrance, and tunnels. I do plan a return trip in the near future to do a much more extensive expedition.  I recommend that if you plan to venture into the mine that you come prepared with a dust mask, and if available even a respirator.

As for Cudahy Camp, all that remains is the foundations of a few of the buildings. A California Parks & Recreations report from 2007 states that the destruction of the historic buildings at Cudahy Camp is a direct result of off-roaders and campers destroying this historic location. Because of this, camping in no longer permitted in this part of Last Chance Canyon. You can read the report on the California Parks & Recreations website.

Despite there not being much in the form of structures of any kind, this is a fun trip filled with beautiful scenery through Last Chance Canyon, and the Old Dutch Cleanser Mine is worth seeing due to its pure uniqueness.

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Colorado Camp, CA

Colorado Camp is located within the El Paso Mountains in Kern County. There are several ways to get here, however the easiest route is to take Mesquite Canyon Road for 4.20 miles. Mesquite Canyon Road can be accessed off of Redrock Randsburg Road approximately 1.9 miles before the Randsburg/Garlock cut-off if you are coming from Highway 14, or 1.9 miles after the cut-off if you are coming from Highway 395.

Colorado Camp was founded in the late 1890′s by Charles Knight. Knight was a justice of the peace in Johannesburg. Colorado Camp has mostly been reported as having been a gold camp, but there is evidence from The Herald Newspaper that the Colorado Camp was also the camp for Heald coal mine. A report from the September 5, 1897 edition reads as follows, “This is situated on the east side of Black mountain, and is a famous old placer camp. A number of miners are dry washing there at the present time. At this point is the Heald coal mine, which is now being operated, and the coal is giving satisfaction in the mill, at Garlock. There are also valuable copper mines in the district,  and there is  abundance of wood and water for milling and camping purposes.”

Charles Knight would eventually (date unknown) sell the mine to C. C. French “Frenchie”, a former soldier and employee of Knights. “Frenchie” was a swindler of sorts. He enjoyed drinking at the saloons in nearby Randsburg. While at the saloon he would produce sample nuggets, and tell his tall tales all in order sell shares of his mine. Once someone would bite, “Frenchie” would put them to work down in the mine while he worked the ore from above ground. It wouldn’t take long before the new partner would realize that he was doing all the work, and for a meager share.  They would always eventually end up abandoning their partnership, and “Frenchie” would again be off to find a new sucker. This same process took place many times of the years that “Frenchie” operated at Colorado Camp. It is unknown as to when “Frenchie” abandoned Colorado Camp.

So what is there to see at Colorado Camp today?

Not much! The only thing that remains today is the chimney from one of the buildings at the camp, a foundation, and a small stone wall.